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Vigezzo Highland - National Park Valgrande

 

In the Eastern part of the Ossola Valley, in that strip of Piedmont territory not far from Lombardy, there is a corridor that constitutes the most accessible and easiest passage between the mountains of Simplon and Gottard. This ribbon of land borders the Ticino canton of Switzerland between the Western and Central Alps. Within these Lepontine Alps, the corridor follows a track that begins in Domodossola and in a west-to-east direction, interrupted in the middle by the Swiss border, ends in Locarno. The section of the corridor located in the Ticino canton is called "Centovalli" and the section located in Val d'Ossola, Italy is called "Valle Vigezzo," also renowned as the Painter' Valley.

The seven Villages of the Vigezzo Highland

(Vigezzo Valley with almost 10.000 inhabitants)

 

Druogno (altitude 835 m.) is the first center encountered while travelling on the state road that extends from Domodossola, Italy to Locarno, Switzerland. The suburb of Coimo is the only vigezzin village to have a dairy with continuous work shifts. Additionally, because well-known homemade products are produced here, and the popular Chestnut Festival takes place every year during the second week of October, Coimo enjoys a rural economy of significant importance.

Santa Maria Maggiore (altitude 816 m.) in the past was the civilian and religious provincial capital of the Vigezzo Valley and the seat of the district court. The most important elements of the town's infrastructure are: the School of Fine Arts Rossetti Valentini containing a picture gallery, the Chimneysweeps' Museum, the seat of the Mountain Communities organization, and the seat of the local section of the Italian Alpine Club. Chimney-sweepers from many European countries come to the International Gathering of Chimneysweepers which is held here every year during the first week of September. Additionally, there is a bicycle track, and the Center for Cross Country Skiing.

Craveggia (altitude 889 m.) thanks to the fortunes of those citizens that emigrated to France, this town has an illustrious past. As testimony to this statement there are many distinguished buildings that are located in characteristically narrow streets. The wonderful architectural complex that exemplifies the piazza (square) of a provincial capital was constructed in the XVIII century. The complex consists of the church, the baptistery and the oratory of Saint Martha. The parish church dedicated to Saints James and Christopher contains the "Treasure of the King of France". It includes extremely precious jewellery and fabrics and other among other items, the funeral blanket of Louis XIV, the Sun King. It also consists of Queen Marie Antoinette's wedding gown, highly valued rare, artistic crosses, sacred vessels and other cultural objects. The house where the noted Vigezzin artist Carlo Fornara lived and worked is located in Prestinone. From this suburb the cable car brings skiers and Delta/Paragliders to 'La Piana di Vigezzo'.

In Malesco (altitude 761 m.) the permanent low mineral content water from the ancient Pezzedi springs, that were initially noticed in 1896 are under production again. The local tourist office hosts the Museum of the Valgrande National Park. The town is located in a central and strategic position regarding the principal roads of the valley. From Malesco the Loana Valley leads to the northern entrance of the National Park.

RE (altitude 710 m.) is situated at only seven km. from the Italian speaking canton (Ticino) of Switzerland. The famous miracle of the Lady of the Blood that occurred on April 29, 1494 was a turning point in the history of Re. The grandiose Byzantine style basilica of the renaissance era, an excellent work of art by the architect Edoardo Coliamarini of Bologna was constructed almost entirely by the stonemasons and artisans from Valle Vigezzo. It was inaugurated by the Bishop of Novara, Monsignor Gremigni.

Toceno (altitude 907 m.) rests on a plateau with one of the most panoramic views of the entire valley. Gaelic and Roman tombs and funeral equipment that confirm the presence of an ancient settlement in Toceno were discovered in three separate neighbourhoods. The parish church dedicated to Saint Anthony Abate was built during the span of two centuries from the XVII to the XIX and was frescoed by the celebrated Vigezzin artist Lorenzo Peretti. During the second half of the month of June, Toceno hosts the "Bread Festival".

In Villette (altitude 807 m.) there is a small museum that is called "Ca di Feman" (women’s house) and traces the story of the country women of the valley. The museum, located in the historic centre of the town has collected hundreds of work tools that were used in ancient vigezzin homes. Villette is also known as the town of the sundials because they are used in profusion as ornaments.

The Vigezzo Highland is really something special, because:

I) where else would you find the little blue train of the 'Vigezzina'. Inaugurated in 1923, its 52 kilometer length is connected by 83 bridges and 31 tunnels. The Italian-Swiss railroad is an indispensable point of reference for tours and excursions of various types. This is a magnificent example of harmonious engineering that blends perfectly into the environment and offers fantastic, picturesque journeys during every season of the year.

Pictures and information: Lago Maggiore Express .

II) The Val Grande National Park is the largest wilderness area of Italy. It is an "out of this worId", unique valley that is dominated by silence, where nature reigns. The National Park is an environmental sanctuary to be visited with absolute respect. Val Grande also has a long history. A story of a mountain civilization is narrated from places and by people of the towns and villages that encircle this region, from the Ossola area, from Verbano, from the Vigezzo Valley, from the Intrasca valley and from Cannobina. Also, visitors stopping in one of the centers, have the possibility of experiencing the sensations of a wilderness area because Val Grande, in addition to being a national park, is a valley that evokes strong emotions.

Some pictures and Map: Valgrande National Park .

 

Official website National Park: parcovalgrande.it (opens new window) .

 

III) Among the numerous Vigezzins who, during the past century left the valley of their births to establish themselves and implement business in other European countries, one who remained, Giovanni Paolo Femminis, tied his name to a product that was to become famous throughout the world: Eau de Cologne. Femminis was born in Crana in 1666 (the house where he was born is described on a memorial plaque). He moved to Magonza when he was 22 years old and after a stay of some years in this city he moved to Cologne in 1693. He settled down and dedicated himself to selling perfumed waters. During this time he began to sell a product he had developed himself, at first called Mirabile, then Cologne. It became a favorite of the public at large, of people of means, and of the "upper class". In fact, conclusions from old recipes and rediscovered studies found in families related to his, explain that in their own country they completed experiments and research with raw materials and essence that could only be offered by Italian flora. Femminis died without heirs in 1736, therefore, production of the Eau de Cologne was continued by an aide, Carlo Girolamo Farina,  a native of Santa Maria Maggiore who past on the business to his descendents. It was reasonable that Valley Vigezzo, other than being the birthplace of both Femminis and Farina, with its richness of natural resources of alpine species, provided the essence required to make the first Eau de Cologne. The precious essence that can still be found today continues to be popular and marketed in various shops throughout the region.

IV) Both the casual observer and the hurried traveler passing through the Vigezzo Valley cannot ignore the charm and the bright, sunny colors typical of this clear and pleasant environment. It motivates you to photograph these images so you can preserve the memory of this irreplaceable ambiance of ancient times. Numerous painters, local and foreign, famous and not so famous, have all immortalized the distinctive views of the valley. Unfortunately, the local, traditional style of painting and the traditional styles of the nearby valleys have vanished in the course of the past centuries. During that era this type of art was almost exclusively used for sacred effigies, churches, oratories and chapels. The proof can be seen today on the facades of middle class homes and on the plaster of shepherds' huts, by now weathered beaten and faded, they still reveal beautiful Madonnas from every era.

V) Also in the winter season there is a lot going on: cross-country, Alpine skiing. At only about 100 m. from Camping Hermitage the cable-car goes to the south-orientated ski-area of La Piana (1725 m.). The map with ski slopes, on the right below - opens a new window.

 

VI) Cross-country and ice-skating in Santa Maria Maggiore, skiing for beginners in Druogno (la Baitina). But also the larger Ossola ski areas are nearby. For example the ski runs (with orientation towards north/northeast) at Lusentino-Domobianca (above Domodossola, only 30 km. away from Craveggia) offer always the best conditions (artificial snow, night-skiing on Fridays).

Imformation backcountry and Ski-alpinism in Ossola

(English/Dutch): Equator-for-Ski .

VI)  Delta, paragliding. The west-to-east valley offers an ideal microclimate, that is loved by delta-flyers and paragliders. Of course all aeronautics can use the La Piana cable-car towards 1725 m. From here experts even fly into the Ossola valleys and towards the lakes.

VII) The Vigezzo Valley, the Highland between Locarno and Domodossola. With about 10.000 inhabitants and a rich historie, nature and culture. Also known as the valley of the painters and the chimneysweepers valley. Is different from the other valleys in Ossola. When you climb the Anzasca Valley, Antrona Valley, Bognanco, Divedro-Cairasca, Antigorio, Formazza or Isorno, then most of us will be blocked by glaciers and the highest mountaintops. In the open Vigezzo valley however, the road continues. To Re, or Masera and towards Lake Maggiore. From Trontano upto Craveggia. Really a great area for cycling...

 
   

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